The Best Moments from Copenhagen Fashion Week SS24

by Kitty Lloyd

Saks Potts @frederikkecronquist

Copenhagen Fashion Week has captivated our social feeds once again this year, as leading Danish fashion houses showcase their spring/summer 2024 collections. Copenhagen fashion week offered an exciting take on fashion’s next season with a smorgasbord of delicious fashion scenes. Across all aesthetics, Copenhagen was filled with a playful whimsy and eclectic extravagance. From audaciously epic sun hats to psychedelic metallics, this fashion week pushed the bounds of functional fashion.

Images : @livjank

Stine Goya’s Supper Club

Stine Goya served up a feast of rich colourways and indulgent details in classic silhouettes - replacing the runway with a dining table for the street party of the season. With models joining from the surrounding homes, the show was a toast to the House of Goya community, taking place on Goya’s own street. With a guestlist of real locals and fashion tastemakers, the show sought to capture the connection, comfort and carefree atmosphere of a dinner party. In the words of the creative director, the show wanted to capture “the joy of day-to-day life in the city.” 

Stine Goya’s SS24 show romanticised minutia - reimagining the classic drapings of daily fashion like suiting, blouses and shopping bags with chambre plisse, intricate sequins and vegan leathers. Titled Homecoming, the collection goes beyond Goya bringing us to her home to experience the collection. The barbie-esc pinks, detailed draping and flowing fabrics invited us to reconnect with the fun at the core of fashion for the runway of every day. 

Marimekko’s Flower Garden

With the 60th birthday of the iconic Unikko print this year, Marimekko SS24 show was a celebration of the Finnish design house's heritage. This collection honoured their famed modernist floral with a poppy installation throughout gardens of the Designmuseum Denmark, complete with giant and rotating flowers to bring the iconic print to life. 

This latest collection from Rebekka Bay featured a lineup of co-ord sets, floor length dresses and workwear details in bold and bright pastel patterns. From the styling to the silhouettes, the collection returned to the original concept behind the Unikko motif - which sought to reimagine the heavy canvases of textiles and workwear with feminine flair. The result was a frenzy of utilitarian workwear styles reinvigorated with the joyous colours of Marimekko.

Rotate’s Power Moves

Backdropped by the ornate beauty of Copenhagen’s most prestigious hotel, Rotate closed the week with daring looks of nipple-tassels, giant hats and Sex and the City-esc diamante underwear. Scored by a remix of Maya Angelou’s Phenomenal Woman, the collection borrowed iconic details of feminine glamour like ruffles, lace and tassels and reworked them into “power move” looks. The fabrications and craftsmanship of the sultry styles created movement with every stride that makes the show a joy to witness.

The Rotate universe created within the 18th-century hotel lobby was the kingdom of the cool girl. Their hyper-femme pieces were styled with leather trenches, white tanks or sequined bomber jackets. Creative directors, Thora Valdimars and Jeanette Madsen, dedicated the collection to the “sophisticated rebel” originally inspired by the grandiosity of Parisian hotels and 90s British punk. The result was a sense of unbothered blaze that’s bound to claim our mood boards next season.

Ganni’s Utopia in Reach 

The Danish powerhouse was unafraid to take on the world of tomorrow through their gritty SS24 show. With an aesthetic they’ve titled “gardening granny punk”, this collection pivoted from their famous brightly coloured dresses for a roster of cool and chic styles. Still finished with Ganni detailing like animal prints, metallic threads and beading.
A collaboration with AI artist Cecilie Waagner Falkenstrøm who’s known for her “thoughtful, philosophical take on AI,”  the Ganni runway was lined with trees programmed to speak, expressing comforting sentiments like “We come in peace”. Ganni envisioned the future without an air of cynicism throughout this runway which featured their eco-friendly material innovations from olive oil to algae. Still embracing the classic tropes of dystopian fashion, see: hooded dresses, black leathers and floor-length trenches, this collection imbued it with a functional glamour. 

Saks Potts’ Playtime

Along the grey of the Baltic sea, Saks Potts’ SS24 collection of chaotically cool looks took to the runway during the drama of a summertime storm. This location was by the kindergarten the creative director best friends first met, with the styles feeling like a celebration of dress up play dates from girlhood.

With looks of underwear as pants, metallic trenches and mesmerising paillette pieces, the spring/summer collection bravely played with mixed and matched materials and details. Inspired by beach club parties, the collection mastered its it-girl status with models wearing vintage Manolo Blahniks to complete the looks. The incorporation of their swimwear pieces made the collection feel like outfits created from a suitcase for the ultimate carefree feeling.

Remain Birger Christensen’s Hall of Mirrors

Hosted in a reflective room of mirrors, Remain’s latest collection took inspiration from the connection you have with yourself, dedicated to “the woman you see in the mirror.” The lineup overflowed with contemporary silhouettes of bold structural shapes crafted from sheer fabrics, denims and leathers. 

The house's famous suiting was balanced with strapless dresses and jumpsuits as well as the gleam of a glittery chiffon see-through skirt for the ultimate capsule wardrobe. With a pleated skirt-dress, back-to-front blazer and perfected pant suit, the Remain collection was a medley of muted colours of revived everyday styles. Sleek and simplified, this collection was focused on adding fun to classic women’s wear looks in original and unexpected ways.

The Danish capital has always been a portal into an idealised world with leading design, tech and culture and this season was no different. Led by exposed underwear, sequins and metallics, this fashion week avowed this coming spring/ summer season as an era of dare. 

Images : Copenhagen Fashion Week
Words : Kitty Lloyd